Monday 21 May Campervan day three

Long ago, Zeus, the father of the Greek gods, released two eagles at opposite ends of the universe, to see where the centre of the world lay. The eagles flew and flew for weeks and months and years, until they met, and and descended to the ground, landing at a place called Delphi. In later years, Delphi became a sanctuary, dedicated to the god Apollo, and home of the Oracle, or Sybile (Sybile from two Greek words meaning “Zeus’ will”). Greeks came to Delphi to offer sacrifices and dedications to Apollo, and consult the Oracle when they had momentous choices to make. It is said that the Oracle foresaw the war with Troy, and that the Greeks would emerge victorious.

Delphi today is still a pretty spectacular place. The road to the modern village winds up and up a steep hillside, offering sweeping views across the olive groves to the coast beyond. The site itself is set on a series of terraces, so you make your way from the entrance, up past the Treasuries of the various city-states, built to house each area’s offerings to Apollo. There was obviously some competition to provide the biggest and best - the Athenians one is the best preserved, and remains have been found indicating that they bought the spoils of their victory at Marathon here to display. The islanders from Naxos carved a sphinx, which is today in the museum at Delphi, which they perched atop a 13 metre high column. 

To mark our journey, I gathered 16 small stones from our farm before we left, which I have been casting in various special places as we go, and collecting a corresponding small stone. I will always know that there is a little bit of the Knobbies in these places, and that there is a little bit of these places at the Knobbies. The first stone I left at the porch of the Caryatids on the Acropolis in Athens. The next is in a small cave in the cliffs of Santorini. Today I made my own dedication to Apollo - okay, it is not quite as grand as a marble sphinx, but a little chip of schist from home now rests on the altar within the Temple of Apollo at Delphi.  

From Delphi, we hit the road for a 4 hour drive north, climbing first through a mountain pass, marvelling at the amount and extent of mining going on, and then down through a series of high valleys, and into the heart of central Greece. The landscape changed dramatically, from bony stony soils and grey mountains to flat green plains full of crops and people. Not so many olive trees here, but lots of rice, corn, wheat, lucerne and stonefruit. Much more like home altogether, except for the people and the towns and the more people and the more towns.

Just as we were wondering if we would ever emerge from the endless plains of industrial agriculture, a range of weird looking hills emerged from the dusk in front of us, and we drove out of modern Greece and into the beautiful town of Kalambaka, and then on to the lovely village of Kastraki, where we stopped at the first campground we came to. A friendly smiling bearded giant met us at the gate, with a welcome, and a handful of lollies for the kids. We were sold. The campsite is green and quiet, the electricity works, the souvlakis are excellent, and the bathrooms are sparkling clean and feature real hot water!!! Yes, we are happy here. 

Jeremy and Kira

The pier at Kira - honestly, it was like that when we got there!

Practising with slingshots on the beach - if those damn doves wake us with their coo-ing again, we will know what to do

Some Greek sheep - I wonder if they call them Greeps?

Navel stone at Delphi - where the eagles met - the navel of the earth

The rock of the Sybile, Delphi

Temple of Apollo - can you see my small stone there on the altar?

Kia checking out the Delphi athletics facility - hmm, have to run a stade race here (about 173 metres) - think she'd do OK, not sure about the hoplite race though (4 stades, dressed only in helmet and greaves and carrying a large shield).

The Sphinx of the Naxians - imagine that at the top of a 13 metre column - impressive!

The Treasury of the Athenians

Life in the campervan 1

Life in the campervan 2

Life in the campervan 3

Bronze statue of a charioteer - about 3 thousand years old and recovered complete from Delphi ruins